Isa Cham Diary

View from Brévent

2010-02-10T20:54:00.003+01:00

Famous Pas de Chèvre

2010-01-31T20:26:00.010+01:00

I have to start blogging again... I want to crystallise memorable days like today...

60 cm of fresh... It reminded me of a few years ago when we used to say "No friends on a Powder day..." A day like today, you surely would loose your friends if you didn't have fat skis.

- 20C at the top of the Grands-Montets, surely nippy! With the wind factor... needless to say that we all fetched our secret hand warmers... But oh la la, so worth it: face shots all day.

Finishing our day with a perfect descent of the Pas de Chèvre was a bliss. The snow had been totally sheltered from those N-O winds. Un régal!

Indian Summer

2008-10-13T14:07:00.004+02:00

The weather is just stunning! The colours are just breathtaking!
Not a soul around!
This is the perfect time to play in the mountains...

Chut! Don't tell anyone, this is the a new secret spot!

Ambiance autrichienne!

2008-09-07T15:06:00.003+02:00

Ambiance autrichienne à Chamonix!

Not Mont- Blanc-ing this week!

2008-09-05T19:48:00.011+02:00

It has been a very frustrating week for people who had planned and -or attempted to climb Mont-Blanc.

The blue sky in the background does not reflect how windy it is up high. These guys had to retreat from the Goûter hut.

This morning Ed motivated the team to get a guide for an extra day, just for the fun of trying some pure rock climbing lines.

You are a natural Mr. Bond!

On their first outing, I decided to get them all leading! James felt in total control!

Mike and Sam had some rock climbing experience.

They realised that it is not easy to learn to trust another belayer.

Good effort Sam!

Something for everyone

2008-08-28T21:04:00.008+02:00

We took the first lift up for our mountain morning trip.

Impressive, dramatic North face ambiance. Wearing a t-shirt makes it look like a surreal photo!

Afternooon with the family team.
Annabelle, looking very graceful and stylish.

Robert, showing some crucial moves to Danna, ex-rock climbing champion.

Josh and Penny working on the 'Frog' technique...

Arête des Cosmiques en hivernal

2008-08-17T20:56:00.008+02:00

Neige fraîche sur les Aiguilles d'Entreves

2008-08-16T20:13:00.007+02:00

Il pleut des cordes...

2008-08-15T22:44:00.012+02:00

Sun's out: Gun's out!

2008-08-11T20:03:00.019+02:00

Le Col de la Colombière is the best rock climbing venue in the Haute Savoie.

La Soupe aux Lards: too many jugs for Mason

Steep overhanging Mim! Thanks Woo for the special angle effect...

The bouquetins enjoyed watching us defy gravity!

Just call me "Kin Sharma"...

Par les 3 Mont-Blanc

2008-08-10T14:11:00.015+02:00

Mont-Blanc du TaculLe Mont-Maudit

The last stretch, Le Mont-Blanc

The summit to ourselves!Excellent conditions on the Maudit Couloir
The afterwards feeling...

Le Mont-Blanc to ourselves!

2008-08-10T10:31:00.006+02:00

Aiguille d'Entrêve

2008-08-07T14:28:00.000+02:00

Allez les Bleus

2008-06-30T19:05:00.001+02:00

Le Tour des Iles de Sorel sur un Rabaska. Une journée inoubliablement québécoise!

Chickens and Kayak

2008-04-20T20:56:00.007+02:00

Wildstrubel

2008-04-18T22:15:00.009+02:00

Fresh 50 cm of snow and perfect sunshine in April does change the program... North facing slopes for perfect powder or south sides for perfect mush...

Being based at the Lammerenhutte gave us the flexibility to choose the best angle of slopes, well except for the Roter Totz.

Skiing off-piste is about skiing all kinds of snow including perfect "poudre"! Right Jo?

Ski off-piste does imply the use of ski touring equipment. Right Sue?

Ski race Grand-Paradis Circuit

2008-04-13T21:42:00.005+02:00

3 hours and 10 min

First ski tour!

2008-04-09T20:42:00.008+02:00

This is it Penny, ski touring!
I chose this itinerary to emerged you into the art of kick turns.
The mixed climbing wasn't part of the initiation...

On a perfect day in a perfect world, the Crochues Bérard is a straightforward tour.
Now, we experienced it a touch more adventurous as Penny's hired boots were 2 sizes too big. A detail she realized when skiing down in a total whiteout. I ended up giving her my own inners to try an pad out the gap.

Garrath confessed he was disappointed not to see the table cloth coming out of my pack...

Crevasse rescue

2008-04-08T20:00:00.004+02:00

Crevasse rescue: un jeu d'enfants!

Et de Chats...

Cycling to work

2008-04-05T08:55:00.005+02:00

The babyseat is very useful for carrying extra equipment!
I should design a ski rack to make it easier.

Exclusive Legend Girls

2008-04-02T21:50:00.009+02:00

Between the three of us, we had pretty much the whole range of the Exclusive feminine line chez Dynastar.

The Exclusive Legend
For the experienced woman skier who likes to ski off-piste when conditions are good. She needs a ski that’s stable and effective on all kinds of snow and terrain.

The Exclusive Legend Powder
Discovering the mountain.-The Exclusive Legend Powder is dedicated to excellent women skiers dreaming of freedom and nature, they want stability and high performance on every adventure.

The Exclusive Legend Pro Rider
A day of Freeriding...-The arrival of the Exclusive Pro Rider expands the range even further for the most intensive women skiers who’ve chosen the powder as their favorite playground.

Hey Nathalie, what kind of skier do you want to be?

Les copains d'abord!

2008-04-02T15:40:00.003+02:00

Une journée avec les copains!

Energy generates energy!

2008-03-31T22:29:00.009+02:00

There isn't much ice climbing this time of the year. But... Greg and I had this great plan of skiing the Vallée Blanche and ice climb out of crevasses. I had my eyes set on those spectacular thin fins just before getting to the Montenvers.

The weather decided otherwise. Instead we had a great powder day. Not easy visibility but it was fun in the secret bowls near the rocks.

This morning was one of those days when you look out the window and you feel like going back to bed. But once you are up there, it is truly fabulous. Greg is an ex-Olympic speed skater, he knows what I mean by "Energy generates Energy!" Thanks Greg for this "chilled" day!

Windy Weekend!

2008-03-30T22:59:00.012+02:00

Rona, Josh, Sarah and Peter experienced the most amazing eventful weekend. Starting with a "semi"car crash... The next day having their car broken into... then not being able to do the VB on Saturday because of strong winds...

And today to top it up, we skied the VB in forceful winds...

And for the GRANDE FINALE, the cable car to Montenvers was closed due to this strong Foehn wind. Nice upill hike to finish the day!

What a memorable weekend!

Under covers!

2008-03-28T21:20:00.011+01:00

Difficult to remain incognito!

The Paparazzi followed you all the way to Megève.

Thanks John for being such an efficient and modest assistant.

Thanks James, you are my new skiing hero!

Thanks Deanna you are an inspiring life coach.

Merci for a such WOW 2 weeks!

Objective achieved!

2008-03-27T19:31:00.005+01:00

Easter Powder!

2008-03-23T19:05:00.004+01:00

Ski & Spa

2008-03-22T22:12:00.003+01:00

Chiecco, oh la la

2008-03-21T20:59:00.007+01:00

Last day of sunshine

2008-03-20T20:22:00.004+01:00

The team extraordinaire Part 1

2008-03-19T22:02:00.024+01:00

Brévent

2008-03-19T21:35:00.007+01:00

Deluxe snow

2008-03-18T22:11:00.009+01:00

Fresh deluxe snow for everyone's taste. What a delightful way to start the week.

Almost the full Oppenheimer contingent here!

A nice cornice avalanche! It is always safer to ski on the convex slope!

I can't believe I stopped filming just at the right moment!

Pillow drops

2008-03-17T22:02:00.007+01:00

Winter is back! This morning Alex and I were both very excited to see his truck filled with snow...

In the trees at the back of Le tour, it was phenomenal. Just the right amount of snow to ride without touching the base. Will and James called this run "Pillow drops"

Never-ending ear infections

2008-03-15T22:06:00.008+01:00

I was prepared for the pregnancy. I was warned about the birth. But nobody told me about this stage of never-ending ear infections!!!

Fortunately Alex likes the pharmacy, it is becoming our favorite shop in town!

Breathtaking

2008-03-14T19:42:00.010+01:00

We skied what I called the scenic run. I couldn't help pointing out at the two climbers in the middle of the face. Two little dots climbing a route called Modica-Noury which looks in superb conditions.

The classic team photo just above the Salle à manger.

A whole spectrum of blues, the crevasses are spectacular. The ice is has taken an incredible shape almost like some very imposing frozen waves!

Malheureusement. someone did find this whole journey breathtaking... A skier had a heart attack walking back up the set of stairs to Montenvers. It was just too shocking when they made us step across the victim whilst someone was doing CPR.

Le Bordel at Les Grands-Montets!

2008-03-13T20:19:00.012+01:00

It rained down to 1800m and the Aiguille du Midi was closed.

So....... everyone had the same idea... This is the queue for the Plan Joran chairlift!

Now, when people got to Plan Joran, they were stuck... only one chairlift was in operation... Nice one... the Grands-Montets knows how to give top quality service and at making sure no one understand what is going on.

Better, they were letting people embark onto the chairlift on their own, or in parties of two's...
Nice one, quel bordel!

Mnemotechnic works: Pete, Mark, Ian, Alistair, Brian, Patrick, Richard, Mike, Régis. But as soon as they would take their hat and glasses off. I had to start all over again!
Thanks guys, your enthusiasm made the day!

More snow!

2008-03-12T13:36:00.002+01:00

Gale force winds

2008-03-11T21:42:00.011+01:00

Gale force winds in the Chamonix Valley. The Grands Montets started running at around 10h30. And not much was opened.

We headed down to Les Houches which turned out to be an excellent choice. Totally sheltered from the wind!

And The Vieille Luge is a top restaurant for lunch: superb rustic ambiance.

To ski all the way down now is starting to become sketchy. Great job with the snow canons.

Confidence is the issue!

2008-03-10T19:44:00.006+01:00

Fresh trackless snow!

Still at the office...

Above the Clouds

2008-03-08T20:36:00.010+01:00

The forecast was for 70 % sunshine... Well, maybe it should be worded differently: something like 0% visibility below 3000m and 100% sunshine above.

Always amusing to listen to people in the cable car. Someone was pointing at this slope judging its angle at 55 degrees.... Well done guys!

Away from the Crowd... is the Ultimate goal!

2008-03-07T21:44:00.015+01:00

A great way to avoid the crowd on the Vallée Blanche is to ski the Vallée Noire, which is the left hand-side bank as you are skiing down.

It is usually skied by parties coming down from the Italian side.

A very scenic descent, with a full view on all of the unbelievable lines skiers have dared to take...

We finished early enough to get to the Grands Montets and catch a top lift.

Perfect timing, We were on our own until this group came racing by in their big fat skis, making hardly any turns. I have to say, I am tempted to try fat skis...

To save time we used my secret parking spot. Unfortunately it meant that we had to ski the Pierre à Ric at its peaks which essentially defeated my ultimate goal of the day.

Perfect VB

2008-03-06T15:45:00.010+01:00

Bombardino!

2008-03-05T21:26:00.007+01:00

Italian wine connaisseurs!

2008-03-04T21:22:00.009+01:00

2008-03-03T20:09:00.013+01:00

That was the most prodigious queue at the Aiguille du Midi I have ever seen. Today it felt like we were at a real Bingo. Nothing was explained but numbers appeared on the board and all of a sudden someone was calling numbers...

Finally we jumped on the cable car to then realize the weather had clearly decided to crap out. At the mid-station we had a discussion about the concept of skiing the VB in a whiteout. Decision made, we are bailing off to ski at the Grands-Montets. You should have seen the expression on the face of my collegues guides on their way up...

Stuart was nice enough to reinforce my decision by demonstrating how painful his ski boots were. It wouldn't have been very wise to ski the VB with agonizing feet in a total whiteout. Instead we enjoyed a few blue holes in the sky.

A bit of a whiteout adventure, just to give us a little perspective on how demanding and exhausting it is to ski with no visibility.

With his hair all frozen, Bruce
gets an preview of what he will look like when
he is 100 years old!

Don't forget your ski boots

2008-02-29T20:01:00.010+01:00

Starting the day forgetting your boots does complicate things a little. Jo ends up renting a pair of boots which are too big for her. It does complicate things a little bit. It is a whiteout day, it does complicate things a little bit more. Jo's knee isn't up for steep jumps... Wrong boots, bad visibility, steep slopes... It does complicate things a little.

But hey, the dream forest was fun and a good exercice at side slipping not side stepping. Right Jo?

2008-02-28T19:59:00.004+01:00

One of those days... Rick is a living topo of the ski touring potential in the Chamonix valley. He has done every possible tour. We drove about 4 times around the main roundabout in Chamonix unable to make a decision. The snow here would definitely provide the best skiing.

But.... a bit of reconnaissance somewhere else would be good too. As we drove down towards the Chablais, the thick band of clouds was really not inviting. So we changed plans and headed toward the Col de La Colombière.

We drove up to 1400 m and there was no snow! Great! That was certainly a reconnaissance, a 2 hour car journey to confirm that the only good snow you can find is up high. Stay in Cham. It is still great!

Amazing Present

2008-02-27T19:36:00.008+01:00

Last night we were given the most AMAZING present from a friend. Lise turned up with a homemade meal. Spring rolls and a green curry!

Merci Lise pour ce cadeau! And it helped clearing my sinuses!!!

Machaby - Subtle levitation!

2008-02-25T20:19:00.011+01:00

Rock climbing in the middle of the winter, this is a real treat for me. And it is so just fun to eclipse away from winter for one day.

There is something magical that happens when I touch warm rock. I don't need to think, I just let me body dance. I draw moves from flash backs of previous holidays, from earlier outings and they come up in waves of happiness.

And this is a real WOW day for both of us, sharing A day together. Almost a novelty this winter!

Very easy venue to get to. Through the Mont-Blanc tunnel. Motorway in a straight line passing along the Val d'Aosta. Exit Verres. Towards Arnad. And there is, a 300m light colored pinkish wall.

The Corma di Machaby is not just purely slab climbing. Yes you have got to know how to smear but it not just padding your way up. It has small holes on beautiful crystalline metamorphic rock. Rick calls it "a subtle levitation"!

The summit view......

Spring time in Fayet

2008-02-24T17:51:00.003+01:00

It is so strange to drive 20 min down the Valley and being clear of snow. Another world really.
It is always invigorating to taste Spring in February.

Scenic loop - Best view on Mont-Blanc

2008-02-22T20:25:00.016+01:00

The bottom lift of Flégère is absolutely mobbed. There is a mammoth queue even on the priority line. What is going on?

There is some misunderstanding about who should be allowed on the "prio". I zipped my jacket so that my guide's badge would be in full view. We were waved straight pass through. What a way to start the day!

We jumped on the liaison to Brévent and we were rapidly at the start of our little adventure.

Crampons on, ice axe out, skis on our back, off we go climbing this steep snowy couloir. A little grassy towards the end.

A real comical battle to put skins on...

This is the most scenic and accessible ski tour in the Chamonix Valley. It offers the best panoramic view on the Mont-Blanc massif.

It is getting scorchingly hot, it is time to get down back to Flégère before the snow turns into soup.

I am getting ready for a rope assistance as it is looking pretty "rip" to entered this abrupt couloir. The snow is soft, just a few rocks to clear and then it opens into a wide bowl.

Ok, let's go for it! Woo Woo wants to ski the steep line.

Unbelievable, almost surreal, we found powder snow in the shade and spring snow in the sun. Back down to the Combe Lachenal.

Italian High Altitude skiing!

2008-02-21T12:40:00.012+01:00

It looks like we are on Aconcagua, somewhere very South American with all this scree!

Nop, we are at the top of Courmayeur ski resort, about to descend an amazing 1200m of vertical drop, down to the Val Veny.

The top lift used to be open for guides only. They even used to make you sign your name when you would exit the telepherique...

I had warned Kin, Mim and Woo about the quality of the snow, about the possible combat skiing when we would get down the couloirs. I prepared them for the worst. To our surprise we skied on a smooth surface, leaving stylishly beautiful light cloud behind on every turn.

No obstacle whatsoever, except that Mim had to find a more challenging route!

We had to renew our annual 3 courses meal lunch at Chiecco. Unbelievable ambiance, Anna is a blast! And the food is too delicious, the Mozarella Buffalo was succulent; the anchovies had a silvery ocean taste; Kin's wild bore and polenta looked the best; my veggie soup was filled with vitamins, Mim's tuna was perfectly perfumed with lime and black pepper and my Eliza'a pastas were so yummy.

Sorry Amy and Woo, didn't even taste your Fettucini all Pesto..., I was too full!

Alex and the girls

2008-02-21T09:32:00.004+01:00

After 2 months of ear infections, Alex is back in good form!
Thanks for the party Mim, Alex loved it!

Secret goulotte!

2008-02-20T21:39:00.046+01:00

I am trying to be very discrete gearing up in the far corner. I know the staff at the Aiguille du Midi will be telling me off for putting my crampons on the wooden platform of the bridge.

I need to be quick and install my rappel ropes before the crowd from the next lift arrives.

Here we go, someone walks toward me...OUF! It is David. He would do anything to help... even getting a pair of tweezers to pull a nasty splinter out.

Leaning over the balcony is absolutely mind-blowing! I cannot remember having done such an exhilarating abseil.

Not sure how many raps we need to do but we have added a few extras as our ropes kept getting snagged over rocks and bits of old wires.

This is a proper North Face climb!

I met Christophe Profit last week topping out of a route whilst I was climbing the Cosmique Arête. Had to go and check it out!

And Miriam was the perfect candidate! After all, She is the Original Strong Woman, I know she is steady and will get up anything.

Five full on 50 to 60m pitches. A full body workout! Every single muscle in you body is in action and pleading for oxygen...

Who knows Mim's next book might be titled ... Strong Women, Climb high!

A very aesthetic top-secret line! I shouldn't be blogging about it but can't help it. It was such an inspiring day!

I am not sure Mim has fully grasped what she has achieved.

You are the "Best" Mim!

Wicked abseil

2008-02-19T20:32:00.006+01:00

Wicked abseils from the passerelle of the Aiguille du Midi.

Superb adventure climbing this secret goulotte... with Mim, the original Strong Women.

More descriptions tomorrow!

Mim, Eliza and Woo Woo!

2008-02-18T07:36:00.008+01:00

That was the fastest Vallée Blanche I have done in a while! The snow was like white velvet! What a day!

We missed you Kin! And Amy!

Couldn't find my knife but my ice screw worked well at removing the heart of an apple.

VB Virgins...

2008-02-17T20:11:00.027+01:00

They have been briefed by their husbands to minimize the faffing... In French, there is no such a word... "Le faffage" has become my favorite word!

The Vallée Blanche is so mythical, it has such extreme colors and emotions associated to it. With reasons... the hubbies have had an epic last week, skiing down on the Italien side, had to called the helicopter couln't get rescue... Penny and Cordelia were prepared for the adventure!

The arête, the first challenge is a piece of cake with crampons.

I have to say it is spectacular to watch from the viewing platform, a real comedy of puppets slidding all over.

Strong enough skiers to take a variante from the classic route and get away from the crowd.

The tablecloth scored high in front of the local guides!

Ended up being chatted up being this British surgeon who had just been flown to Annecy to performed a live surgery! (with webcams)

When the girls told him they were VB virgins, his response was that maybe he should call his wife and tell her he has fallen in a crevasse!

Fun and dazzingly wild to ski through the ice formations. Had to do a few tricks... grabs and stuff to impress the boys on photos...

What a perfect "for the very first time!"

Photo shoot

2008-02-15T19:57:00.019+01:00

Aiguille du Midi, the Contamine route. What a fabulous setting for a photo shoot.

We have known and shared with John Norris, professional photographer for over more than a decade. In the past, you were more likely to find John capturing an extreme skiier on a astonishingly line. But now, John is hanging up and down ropes.

Climbing had never been his forte. It is not actually the climbing itself the issue, it was more the appehension of the "vide". Today he has really impressed us with the way he has been trusting the gear and how he has been hanging off belays, leaning in all sorts of positions. Here he is in full pelvic thrust action!

Always interesting to climb and pose at the same time, a sort of slow motion "gestelle". Rick has become an accomplished down climber, he surely knows now the crux of that pitch!

And what a WOW day to be rock climbing in mountains. We are only the 15th of February and it felt like summer on the warm granit!

We surely provided some great entertainment to the VB crowd, they would all ski at the foot of the pillar and talk about the different climbing lines.... The light breeze would clearly carry their voices to us. I tell you, there has been some amusing tales shared by the Chamonix guides!

Magic drawing board!

2008-02-12T21:04:00.003+01:00

Journée de repos avec Alex

This is the most practical present you can offer to parents...

A magic drawing board... It comes with a pen which you fill up with water. We use it also with a paint brush and a bowl of water.

Frozen Water

2008-02-11T20:00:00.004+01:00

Début d'une amitié de cordée...

Saturday at Grands-Montets

2008-02-09T19:27:00.000+01:00

Saturday is what we call here "the change over day". A whole crowd leaves, another nation arrives... In other words super quiet in the morning.

We had made a reservation for the top lift yesterday via the Montenvers cash desk. Excellent to avoid morning queues to get a ticket.

Secret spots... Confidential passages...

Interesting concept to lock you skis with a number combinaison that changes during lunch...

The North-East wind has strangely transformed the snow. On the glacier and the Grand-Mur, the skiing is good but challenging if you don't have big fat wide skis. The best skiing today was the Front Face with a surprisingly smooth surface. Flurries of were consistently filling the tracks with some very light powder. We were trailing enormous plumes behind. Fab sensations!

Petit Envers

2008-02-08T20:25:00.001+01:00

Crampons and bikinis

2008-02-07T20:13:00.000+01:00

Cascade di Lillaz

1st Pitch

2nd Pitch

3rd Pitch

4th Pitch

5th Pitch

Last Pitch...

"Viva Italia" as Amanda would say!

Wet'n'Wild...

2008-02-06T21:29:00.000+01:00

The webcams were revealing a much brighter sky in Italy. We were relishing the thought of a Capuccino... Too Bad, the tunnel was closed due to an accident on the Italian side.

Amanda was prepared to brave our very wet day with her versatile ski/swimming goggles.

Steep ice was safer to climb as the wet heavy snow had already plummeted down.

Our last pitch was a bit a shock to the system... It was wet'n'wild... a bit like taking a cold shower first thing in the morning with a hangover!

Amanda is looking nearly at the bar!

White as Snow!

2008-02-04T17:42:00.001+01:00

At first you might think that the poor visibility would create a cheerless or dispiriting atmosphere for ice climbing.

Surprisingly enough, all this fresh snow adds a zest of fun!

The rhythm is slower. the ambiance very friendly. It felt appropriate to borrowed everybody's ice climbing tools so that Amanda could have a real axe-testing before she buys her own.

We were thinking that a broom might be a useful peace of kit to bring along on a snow day.

There is always this great steep wall of ice on the right hand side. Prefect for getting milage on ice.

And it has a **** star belay!

Three things

2008-02-03T19:13:00.000+01:00

We wanted to have an early start to beat the crowd on a Sunday at La Cremerie. Great idea but I couldn't drive up the icy road!
Still early enough to jump directly on the steep pitches.

Gullian seems to have improved 200%. From having scratched one easy mixed gully in Scotland and walked up a 4000m peak, she is now tackling steep frozen waterfalls.

She told me there is simply too much for her to learn in just a few days. So I asked her what tips would she hang onto after this course... She said very spontaniously: "Three things":

"1. Never look up when someone shouts rope, get your head down.
2. Make sure you don't clip the end of your cow's tail around yourself when abseiling, very painful.
3. Do not leave gear behind at the belay... "

Cascade di Lillaz

2008-02-02T17:27:00.001+01:00

Bar Licone, Cogne climbers' hub! Starting the day with a capuccino "molto caldo" really makes my day!

The pages of the guest-climbers book seem to be filled with descriptions of Repentence, a very well known grade 6 ice fall. It must be a hook fest by now!

It is Gillian second day on ice and the Cascade des Lillaz is mind blowing. Climbing in the sun, it does goes beyond expectations.

A few weeks ago, Kevin and Isobel contacted me to guide them this weekend... I was already booked so suggested they should hook up with the best female climber in Italy. Anna Toretta.

What a coincidence. We would have liked to coordinate meeting up it wouldn't worked any better. They were the party ahead of us, on the second pitch.

It is very rare to meet other collegue women guide!

The 4th pitch is superb at the moment, very sculptured. Climbing in the right-hand side corner gives it a bit of a mountain goulotte feel.

Couldn't help filming this guy struggling belaying his friend up. I explained the beauty of using a magic plate. His reply: "I have seen them before, Guides seem to be using them'lots!"

First time on ice

2008-02-01T06:25:00.003+01:00

I have decided the best way to learn how to ice climb is to start on something steep!

Much easier to get the hang of banging tools in and being precise on the front points.

Abseiling down using an "Abolokov" is always a big WOW moment!

I agree with Gillian, I will need to try one of those "plexi viser"attached to the helmet to see it they work better than glasses.

White Vallee Blanche (Part 2)

2008-01-31T14:30:00.002+01:00

Couldn't resist a group photo... an image to capture an new VB's odd tale.

Dave Etherington came along this morning to rescue the team. It is now a good time to share the wild and the worst VB epics...

What a difference when you can see, you can actually ski into the crevasses!

People always ask me how good of a skier do they need to be. The fact that you are an intermediate skier on a red or black piste will not necessarily make you an accomplished skier for the VB. What you need to ask yourself is if can you ski all kinds of snow over 22km: powder, crust, icy sections... Can you side slip, ski bumps, ski in control through narrow passages in between crevasses.

Then you add up all the extra stress factors: rapid change in weather, no visibility, cold wind, etc. Plus being at altitude will also diminish your physical and technical ability.

The VB is an extraordinary accessible ski adventure. But my last two days made me realise that more info and preparations need to be shared to fully enjoy this unique experience en haute-montagne.

White Vallee Blanche! (Part 1)

2008-01-30T09:22:00.001+01:00

Pete and I meet the group at 10h00 and we were asked when and where would we have lunch...

What a glorious start of the day, being on top of the world, above the clouds.

The Midi arete provided a first serious challenge for our team. It is becoming very icy and crampons will soon be mandatory.

It took nearly an hour to get down to finally put our skis on. The weather was playing hide and seek but it was still all promising.

Monsieur Meteo was right: it would clear up mid-day...

Yes clearing but only for a short spell of 5 min! We ended up skiing "a la queue leu leu" in total whiteout. What a different game to ski with no visibility. We then heard voices... "help! help!"... Two black shapes emerged in the whiteness. I felt like we were adding wagon to our train. We made it to the Requin hut, it was now 15h30.

To late to catch the train. We had to make a difficult decision. It wasn't safe to continue with the entire group. Getting back to Cham involved more skiing in poor vis with tired folks.

Also meant to get to off the glacier which is getting very interesting at the moment! Then walking up to the buvette on an icy path. To finally ski down a very rocky track, taking skis on and off and finishing in the dark.

9 out of 12 are staying at the hut tonight, having a real mountaineering experience. I would have stayed overnight with them but I didn't know how I would do it for Alex as Rick is absent.

I will take the first lift up tomorrow morning and meet them at the hut to continue our journey down.

What time did we say we would have lunch?

Femmes Guides sur France 2

2008-01-29T07:08:00.000+01:00

Francoise Gendarme is the first woman to have been elected as the President of The French Guide's association.

Check http://jt.france2.fr/20h/ du lundi 28 janvier

under Guides de haute montagne: une femme à la tête du syndicat

Here is the interview we made last week... Always very strange to see yourself on TV... and all those questions for a few seconds of broadcast!!!

Guest Blog; Isa is amazing!

2008-01-27T20:01:00.000+01:00

Hello

Ice climbing is Amazing and we have learnt so much over the last 3 days with Isa and we are looking forward to tomorrow with her up on the Midi (weather permitting!) :)

We started with technique lessons on the Cremerie, then to Italy for some leading lessons. Yesterday we went back to Italy for some milage on step waterfall ice with fantastic views of Gran Paradiso (which is now on our to do list).

Isa has been an incredible guide and teacher. She has given us confidence to go out on our own which is exactly what we wanted after our time with her.

Dan and Georgie

xxxxxx

"Un p'tit salut à tous les gens de la Rue"

2008-01-27T08:49:00.001+01:00

Enfin!!! Alex a retrouvé son appétit et sa bonne humeur!

Ice cream - Sun screen

2008-01-26T16:48:00.000+01:00

cascade des Lillaz

2008-01-25T20:37:00.001+01:00

Full ON Full Moon!

2008-01-24T20:34:00.000+01:00

The full moon has some bizarre influence on my life.

I seriously believe I have ditched Rick's car key in the poubelle and nop, we didn't have a double. The exhaust pipe of my car has decided to mutter like a racing car. Alex is seriously ill, need to see the doctor, need to get to the pharmacy, need to get to the garage as we have no transport. France 2 television wants to interview me ice climbing. There has been a misunderstanding with my bookings... I am starting work a day earlier. Mad rush to find a babysitter. Alex's diarrhoea is getting worst with no hope of going to nursery this week. I have not slept. This week is pretty full on full moon!

This morning I am back on the ice. And all my worries have lifted up. Being outside gives me lots of enery. I don't seem to be tired anymore. The glacier d'Argentière in the background always gives such dramatic ambiance to the Crèmerie.

France 2 in on the spot for an quick interview.

I am officially bad at talking in front of a camera. I just freeze!!!

Dan and Georgia are doing a workshop on footwork technique and body positions...

Confidence Confidence Confidence, that's what ice is all about. Leading with a slack top-rope as a back up is the best way to learn the art of placing ice scews without getting the shaky Elvis leg.

Follow the guide!

2008-01-22T21:04:00.000+01:00

TUESDAY JANUARY 22nd 2008
Gloomy morning strong winds
PRECIPITATIONS : continuous in the morning - showers later, becoming scattered - rain-snow limit towards 1400 m dropping towards 800 m - expected snowfall: 20-30 cm.

With this forecast, the options are limited to a) Staying in bed b) Shopping c) skiing in a white out or d) site seeing on skis

The c) journey "visite guidée" on skis started by jumping into the Mont-Blanc Express train. I quickly sneeked in a nearby hotel asking for Carte d'hôtes which would give us a free ride for the French side. I introduced myself as a mountain guide and as the weather was very poor, I didn't want to drive and wanted to take the train instead. Just a white snowy lie, as I didn't tell them the clients were actually not staying at their hotel.

We made our way to Les Marécottes, a very authentic family ski resort in Switzerland. We skinned up the summer path venturing into the white wilderness. 700 m of ascent which got us at the bottom of a chairlift. Took rapidly our skins off and jumped on... Yahoo! We were scamming our way up to get to the restaurant. We couldn't believe it: we were the only ones on the lift and the pistes were totally deserted. We had the entire resort to ourselves.

We raced back down the sledging piste. What a great safe tour on a foul weather day!

Had a bit a spare time before catching our train and went to do some repérage, checking the Zoo out!

Not joking, I'm going there next summer, it has a heated outdoor swimming pool built into the rock.

Fantastic VB

2008-01-21T20:43:00.000+01:00

Sunday Val Ferret

2008-01-20T18:27:00.000+01:00

Walking in the Val Ferret is like being in a postcard. Always a great feeling to walk at the foot of the Grandes-Jorasses......

Jade was such a great nurse looking after Alex who is sick with a gastro.......

Photo du Jour

2008-01-19T18:37:00.000+01:00

Great tracks on the Pas de Chèvre

Extreme intro!

2008-01-18T21:48:00.001+01:00

Julian and Piers wanted to learn about ski touring with the ultimate goal of doing the Haute-Route next year.

The Crochu-Bérard tour would offer them a varied terrain, ideal to practice all the skills involved with long ski touring adventures.

Hum... Hum... The skinning up was extremely technical with all this fresh snow. The kick turns were tricky to complete, the tips kept getting caught in big banks of snow. What a great opportunity to test the Polka turn.

We were then wading/swimming our way up a couloir on the right handside of the normal route. The assistance of a rope was needed for a rock section. Du jamais vu! It probably took us 3 hours to get to the Col Crochu. Pretty extreme conditions!

"... but this is the real stuff..."

Skiing down from the Col towards the long traverse was exceptionally beautiful. So much so that Julian was not paying enough attention and took a tumble on the steepest part of the traverse. He managed to self-arrest with style before taking speed and risking a long base jump off the cliffs. Adrenaline was flowing high...

When we finally arrived at the Col Bérard, we were contemplating our descent with excitment. OOOOOPS! WRONG! I have never skied that much windblown crust in my life. It was real combat/survival skiing. It got worst and worst. It was then covered with an icy layer. I was seriously concerned that one of us might get injured. Skiing on avalanche debris was the only turns I could safely afford. I even enjoyed my turns down the final James Bond exit. That tells you how bad the whole descent was!
I know you don't believe me guys but ski touring is fun!

Impatiently waiting to indulge ourselves in powder

2008-01-17T20:25:00.000+01:00

The Vallorcine cable car didn't open before 10h00! The whole of the Chamonix Valley would have signatures all over the mountains by now.

Well worth the EXTRA wait. We found some great untracked terrain, with surreal views.

It is so hard to make everybody stop to take pictures when it is heaven. Piers is giving us a great technical lesson.

I became greedy and wanted to tick all of the secret spots. We ventured down towards Trient and the snow became "slightly" inconsistent... Short, thin, lightweight touring skis were not paying homage to this immaculate-looking fresh snow!

Back finding some real light sugar to finish off the day...

Who has time to call on a powder day?

Blanc de Blanc

2008-01-16T15:03:00.000+01:00

Big wet snowy flakes and it is mayhem in town. The ski lifts would be running late. Perfect, I had time to have a chat with Hiroshi and ask some advice on ski touring bindings.

The shop was totally empty, I felt priviledged to share some quiet, undisturbed time with the most experienced ski tech in this valley. And what a novelty for me... I am interested in learning how to look after my skis...

I prefered sticking to trees as it was still all very blanc de blanc out there. Les Houches is such a great venue when there is zero visibility.

Sorry Nat for leaving you a little bit behind for a while. I needed to feel those endorphines kicking in.

Photo du Jour

2008-01-15T20:07:00.000+01:00

On their skin up toward La Floria above the Index, Kin and Dick almost got hit by a skier straight lining down

at probably 80km an hour!

Great news: it snowed another good 30 cm of fresh snow yesterday.

And no wind this time, that is a novelty...

2008-01-15T15:10:00.001+01:00

Col de Beugeant

2008-01-14T19:52:00.000+01:00

High winds have destroyed the powder dream at high altitude. This past weekend, Le Toule glacier and les Pentes de la Vierge were virtually inskiable, the Vallee Blanche was atrocious and the Grands-Montets just OK. There is a lot of cardboard out there. But thank God for creating the Aiguilles Rouges... The Col de Beugeant was the only ski tour Roger 76 years old hadn't done. We had our doubts about the snow conditions but hey, the best way to know was to check it out.

You don't really see the ramp to cross until you are half way up. It is an obvious diagonal line, bang on at 2970m.

Looking up at the traverse seems relatively easy. Is is really necessary to use the ropes? During my formation as a guide, a teacher gave me this advice: "if you ask yourself the question it means there is certainly a good chance you might need it. "

I teamed up with Roger who ost his crampons twice. Roger wicked at me in complicity. Dick and kin were following securing the rope around rocks.

900m of uphill for 1600m of untracked knee deep powder!

The weather closed in, I felt swallowed by whiteness. It was getting difficult to guess the terrain. But the snow being so good, we just let our skis navigate us down to the Vallee de Berard.

The exit to Buet is in excellent James Bond conditions at the moment!

There is ice at the end of the Tunnel

2008-01-12T07:53:00.000+01:00

A quick morning hit next to the road...

Just after the tunnel in Chatelard. It is actually underneath the road. Just need to walk a 10m passerelle and there we are. It is hard to find a more comfortable spot to gear up!

An amazing 50m pitch but the ice is melting away and the columns are now barely attached to the rock.

The finish involves some interesting bush wacking! Bill is stylishly getting to the belay.

The only way to climb this line is to be extremely delicate using small hooks instead of hammering confidently the axes in. It can get very pumpy as we tend to grip nervously on the axes. Louise experienced having arms looking like Perrier Bottles ....

Cascade des Lillaz

2008-01-10T08:36:00.001+01:00

Mark's voice exudes confidence, his mind is racing with anticipation, he radiates with enthousiasm. He is getting ready for the Seven Summit Challenge...

His conquest of the highest peaks on each of the seven continents starts in three weeks with Aconcagua.
This coming summer he will be attempting Kilimanjaro and Elbrus. Next winter Mount-Vinson. Spring 2009 Everest! He will be left with Carstensz Pyramid a more technical rock summit on the island of New Guinea and Denali in North America. It is not the classic order people have done it in the past but he has the resilence and the motivation.

The objective of our day is to share info, tips and advice from my previous expeditions. I have been to Aconcagua, Denali and Ama Dablam. Not quite Everest but high enough to talk about this altitude game...

We are having our chat whilst climbing the Cascade des Lillaz. Why not? It is always more meaningful to talk about gear in action!

We arrived at the 1st belay and met up with Valery Babanov! The famous Russian mountaineer well known for his hard/narly solo ascents all over the world. An inspiring figure.

The second pitch of the Lillaz in finally in!

Not that Mark will have to tackle lots of steep ice during his journey but he is opening all his options...

Still very thin walking at its base.

Inevitable shopping frenzy!

Bonne Chance Mark!

Ciao Rovenaud

2008-01-03T22:55:00.001+01:00

Rovenaud, Valsavaranche, Italy

After our great off-piste adventure, Gavin's shoulder might not be up for a long multi-pitch. La cascade Rovenaud is ideal for us. It provides an amphitheatre, a flat base where we can safely move around. Perfect ground to work on technique.

Unlike rock climbing where there are lots of single pitch sports venues, with ice climbing we tend to set off on multi-pitches. There is a great satisfaction about finishing a route, getting to a summit. But I tell you: doing laps on a top rope is such a great way to improve body positionning, to learn about how to save energy as a second and more important to get your confidence back.

It is so much easier to climb without leashes. Whether you are leading or seconding, there are more chances of dropping your axes trying to get out of the leashes... and the bonus comes when you realise you can swap hands and keep hitting the axe with your best swing.

Gavin is trying out my axes... as his words were "I am just testing my next year's christmas present..."!

The ice formation was very bizarre. It felt like we climbing on giant cauliflowers!

Sorry Alison, I didn't mean to tilt the camera that much...

BONNE ANNEE 2008

2008-01-01T10:35:00.000+01:00

Hallelujah!

Rick Alex et Isa

Finhaut to Les Marécottes

2007-12-28T11:02:00.000+01:00

Great to get a bit of a work out on boxing day! Rick and I decided to go skiing a loop from Finhaut to Les Marécottes.

It hasn't snowed

for two weeks now. There are tracks everywhere. Going uphill is getting very challenging. I wish I had brought my "couteaux".

We went on a bit of adventure checking out a patch we had spotted on the map. We were so thrilled to find an untracked perfect powder garden.

Another very entertaining icy section...

We ended up finishing on a sledging piste, at the bottom of Les Marecottes tiny ski resort. We missed the train by 3 min. What a good excuse to spend a little longer together!

Champagne Powder!

2007-12-22T19:28:00.000+01:00

Very unusual to start my skiing day with the visit of a wine cellar. Jonathan was very excited to show me his new Jacques Selosse champagne acquisitions. I was absolutely astouned by his enthousiasm and comparison with Christophe Profit...

Anselme Selosse, the present owner and winemaker of Jacques Selosse, who many regard as the Champagne region’s greatest producer, is based in Avize. His sometimes unusual methods of wine making have led some to call him the madman of Avize, but this really does not do justice to his brilliance. Indeed perhaps the best way of understanding just how good he is would be to liken him to Christophe Profit, one of Chamonix’s greatest climbers. He produces six different cuvees of Champagne, starting with “Initiale” – 30,000 bottles or so made each year, and culminating in “Substance” (of which a mere 3,000 bottles a year) is made of wines from every year dating back to 1986. His others are “Originale”, “Contraste”, a rose and individual year vintages. Don’t bother looking for his wine in Chamonix or indeed just about any other place – just remember his name in case you are lucky enough to get the chance to drink his elixir.

We skiied some champagne powder today. The secret garden behind the Posettes lift was a dream.

The snow was very crystalised and almost bubbly!

We finished the day with the descent of the Posettes gully. We chose a more radical line which made the skiing a touch more technical.

It got steep and narrow with a snow that was heavier which didn't give much margin for errors.

What a start to the season!

Punta Jolanda, Gressoney, Italy

2007-12-20T21:24:00.000+01:00

Una giornata fantastica climbing Punta Jolanda with Judy and Rob Greeves.

The conditions are ottimi. We were a bit surprised with the guidebook description which says a 50 m pitch. Maybe my Italian is not up to speed but it is more like 100m of amazing shaped ice.

We drove up this morning from Chamonix to Gressonney La Trinite. It is not the nearest venue I admit but well worth the journey. And the reward the short 15 min walk in.

Ice is very deceptive... From the cafe, it looks incredibly vertical and austere! From below at the belay stance, the angle eases off and it looks pretty much straight forward. Then when you are climbing it, the ice wall seems to move upright again and it feels much steeper than it did when setting off. It is all a matter of perspective and confidence...

As a second Judy is learning to save energy by using old axe placements and using open holes as hooks.

The end of a long steep pitch invariably reveals if we are right or left handed...

We continued up to the top and decided to walk down instead of abseiling. We follow some good mountain goat tracks. The walk down added a zest of adventure to the day. Thanks guys, it was una giornata indimenticabile!

Cremerie, Argentiere

2007-12-19T19:12:00.001+01:00

The car park of the Cremerie was full this morning, unbelievable! There was a cooporate events/team building event happening. All these people walking up with crampons in a plastic shopping bag. I was a little puzzled as how were would find a bit of ice to ourselves. Lost concentration, don't know how I did that but I drove off into a snowy ditch! Great, there was no alternative for now. We would squeeze in...

We ended up walking further in to an ice fall called Moby Dick and we were totally on our own. Judy has climbed before, she wanted an instructional day, a day to learn about all the little tips that make the big difference.

What comes to mind right at the start is to try to minimize the "faffing". A neat british word which has no equivalent in French nor American. It is about avoiding loosing unnecessary time. Like lacing up your boots before putting gaiters on.

The tip of the day for Judy was the fact that I use thethe end of the rope to remove the ice stuck inside the ice scew.

We finished the day by top roping numerous times a very thin wall of ice. I have watched Judy improve her body positionning and her technique in no time.

I had sent a text to Rick asking him to get Alex at the nursery as I would be a little late... being in double trouble: no battery and in the ditch. A few hours later, I recieved a text saying: Blue job done!

Antares, Valsavaranche

2007-12-17T20:38:00.000+01:00

ANTARES is one of my favorite venues for ice climbing. It is the whole experience that makes a real WOW day! The drive up into the Valsavaranche valley is truely beautiful. The remote feel of not seeing a soul around just bouquetins dancing in the snow is just wild. Getting ready, putting boots on in a warm cafe sipping a cappucino is very civilized. The 10 min walk in even better!

The first pitch is covered in snow with just a little step of ice before the 1st belay on the right. Then the second pitch is a real calf muscle burner! Not steep enough to be standing up right, but tricky enough to be wanting to use both axes. Louise has her own technique...

The third pitch is a full on 50 m of vertical ice of grade 4/4+, well formed, very "fat ice" but also very hard ice. I got a real pump working my way up "dinner plating"placements. OK fair enough this is my first outing of the season. Isn't strange how your mind can block out the simplest usful information... like breathing, not gripping manically tight on to the axes, shaking out, body positioning...

I left the car park with only 6 ice screws. I soon discoverd that the extra confidence ice screws can provide is essential. I used my first ice screw to protect the belay. I was then down to 5. When I tried to place my second and I discovered it was totally blunt and impossible to use. I was down to 4. Then I suddenly looked at my rack and with one very short ice screw I was litterally climbing with only 3 1/2... Oh la la my imagination was playing tricks on me...

I got the hot aches, hands and feet. I forgot that ice climbing can be painful and very scary. I belayed from this niche standing under the ice-curtain of the final pitch admiring the great view out to the valley, right in front of the Grand Paradiso. I just can't help it. It is so good to be out on ice again.

The final pitch is a very short traverse and the ice is all much softer, it felt much easier.

Quick abseils and we were back at the car in no time. What a way to start the winter!

Col de Fenestral

2007-12-15T15:34:00.001+01:00

Our original plan was to skin up to Bel Oiseau, a stunning peak, which predominates the view when driving up the Col des Montets. It is just on the Swiss border above this isolated high perched village called Finhault.

Very chilled start, I know I have too many layers on and I will need to start peeling off in only a few minutes. I can't help it I like this feeling of getting this warm rush of blood circulating through my body. I am skinning just behind Mim and we have found this chatting rhythm. being each other life coaches...

We made our way up to an amazing amphitheater where we changed objective. Bel Oiseau on the left looked like an intimidating skin up, where as the straight forward zig-zag track up to the Col de Fenestral was too inviting. Plus, the prospect of traversing back into the combe Rossa and entering into an untouched ground was very exciting.

Fantastic last bit of uphill with the Tour Saliere in the background. And then the rewarding views from the summit of the Weisshorn, Dent Blanche, Grand Combin so incredibly plasted in fresh white!

The entrance into our magic combe was a little steeper that expected. It added a little zest of adrenaline to Mim who loves down climbing!

The snow was very disconcerting...It looked so immaculate from the summit. It looked like the dream powder descent. Dommage! I am struggling with my little light weigh kit. I just seem to be able to break the crust and sink down to bottomless powder. Mim described it as skiing on "crème brulée"!

We chose to ignore the map and get further into adding a bit of adventure. We knew we would reach the forestery trails but the last thing expected was to poll our way down. Good for the abs!

Croise Baulet

2007-12-13T21:14:00.000+01:00

Yet another perfect powder filled day!

Powder dream!

2007-12-12T20:25:00.000+01:00

Oh La la!~!!!!

Difficult to keep the excitement level down with around a metre of fresh in just a few days. Yesterday was a day for digging but today the skies cleared. With crisp temperatures and pristine snow... in a word breathtaking.

Driving over the col des montets it's amazing to see how the snow has stuck to even the steepest of the rock slabs. Is this really the Haute Savoie or Alaska.

The Big White Week!

2007-12-11T15:10:00.001+01:00

SUNDAY
It is snowing "Pizza flakes"!
It is all very exciting, but we still need to be patient as not much is opened. The Grands-Montets is opening with style for this great snowy weekend with ... its main ski lift Bochard being broken down...

MONDAY
Mim and Kin have just arrived yesterday from Boston. They coulnd't have timed it more perfectly.
It took me about an hour to get up to Grands-Montets. There were abandoned cars all the way along the road. YES! It is time to put winter tires on!

We went skinning up some knee deep powder. Excellent tactic to try and beat the jet lag! The descent was fabulous: the piste was like skiing on velvet and "next-to-the-piste" we would sink to our waist. This is starting to become surreal!

TUESDAY
Big White Day!

It is still snowing. Very social morning in the neighborhood. Everyone is out having a chat, giving their predictions for the winter. Apparently big berries and rounded potatoes = lots of snow....